Tashi Laptsa

I'm back in Kathmandu after a successful ascent of Ama Dablam. More on that later. Here's the story of the four day journey from Rolwaling up and over Tashi Laptsa, one of the most challenging passes in the Himalaya, and down into the Khumbu. You know you're in the Himalayas when the passes are 19,000 ft!img_5844img_5851img_5859img_5861img_5842 img_5843Tsho Rolpa, a terminal lake, is one of many in the Himalayas prone to glacial outburst floods. One here in 1986 was very serious to my understanding, and increased glacial melting due to climate change is expected to make such flood events more frequent and severe in the future.img_5869Babu Ram walks into Chukima camp, with Nachugo behind.img_5886Pika!img_5894 img_5898 img_5927Dust at the head of the Rolwaling valley is from a massive and active landslideimg_5940 img_5948Furtemba crosses active landslide on the way to our high camp below Tashi Laptsa. We kinda ran:img_5950 img_5967 img_5975 img_5976One of the finest places I've spent a night:img_5980 img_6084Purna and Babu Ram ascend ever steepening glacial ice with outrageous loads:img_6088Furte borrowed my axe to chop steps for the portersimg_6092We donned crampons for the final few hundred meters up Tashi Laptsa. I was glad to switch to mountain boots as my toes were violently cold.img_6094Descending Tashi Laptsa was tricky and arduousimg_6108Tengkangboche:img_6109Descending some of the coolest glacial polish I've seen:img_6114Furte whipped up one of the best high altitude meals I've had. Super spicy potato curry with Tibetan fried bread:img_6121Babu Ram's basket was toastimg_6122 img_6124 img_6129 img_6135 img_6138 img_6139Coming into Thengbo was spectacularimg_6145First view of Ama Dablam, our next objectiveimg_6146 img_6148Thame:img_6151 img_6158 img_6161The trails of the Khumbu are like highways!img_6166Namche Bazaar, the largest settlement in the Khumbu valley:img_6168Oh yeah, Mount Everest...img_6170 img_6172Signs warn us of glacial lake outburst floods (GLOF). I think it would help if the sign explained what the hell GLOFs are.img_6175 img_6177Everest (behind) and Lhotse (R), the world's highest and 4th highest mountains. I made it about a thousand feet higher than the prominent Yellow Band without oxygen on Lhotse in 2013.img_6178Pasang Tenzing, Furtemba and Leslie take a break on the way to Pangbocheimg_6183Furtemba, brought to you by Ray Ban, Black Diamond, Mammut and Sportiva:img_6190 img_6206Everest and Lhotse catch the last rays of sun from Pangbocheimg_6208 img_6211Another privileged opportunity to meet with and receive blessings from Lama Geshe, the highest ranking Lama in the region. Once again he laughed at my "Nepali name"img_6214 img_6218Ama Dablam. Our route was the right hand skyline:img_6219 img_6220 img_6221Spinning the prayer wheels at Pangboche Monastery after our visit with Lama Gesheimg_6223 img_6226 img_6233 img_6235 img_6241 img_6242Pasang walks to base campimg_6243Ama Dablam base camp is so comfortable and beautiful. Nicest base camp ever!img_6249Not to mention the outrageous comforts (welcome mat!) in our camp. Ascent Himalayas for the win!img_6250Tawoche from base camp:img_6256

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Resilience: A year and a half of recovery since the Great Earthquake