Getting bigger: Chachacomani

After a three-hour drive, Freddie dropped us off in Alto Cruz Pampa, where we were greeted by mule drivers and their dogs

The long approach to base camp was beautiful. We trekked up the length of this valley before climbing 1000 ft up a valley to the left

Alex and Nico on the approach

Views of our objective, Chachacomani, 19,930 ft

Nico, an aspiring mountain guide, bouldering on the way to base camp

We established camp in this beautiful meadow

After a 1AM start, daybreak was quite welcome. Here, Alex leads to the col.

Following the last section to the col. The glacier was heavily crevassed. Lake Titicaca in the background. Photo: Alex von Ungern

The vast Amazon basin is covered in clouds below. It's amazing in the Cordillera Real to see both Lake Titicaca and the Amazon from the same vantage point.

Chachacomani (summit is on the right). We chose the steepest line, extending vertically down from the true summit.

Alex leads the lower face past the awful bergschrund.

The face became progressively steeper

Me following the lower face. Photo: Alex von Ungern

Alex caught me in the sun-shade line as I follow the face! Photo: Alex von Ungern

Finishing one of the upper pitches. Conditions were quite variable, but many of these sections were horrible unconsolidated snow. Photo: Alex von Ungern

Looking down at the crux. It was necessary to make some mixed climbing moves to overcome the incredibly steep and loose snow in the gully.

Summit with the Amazon behind. Photo: Alex von Ungern

Titicaca

Our team, L to R: Me, Alex von Ungern (guide), Nico (cook), and Freddie (driver)

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The West Face of Huayna Potosi

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Bolivia's Cordillera Real: Acclimatizing in style