The past few weeks have been a progression. I've acclimatized and built the skills and teamwork with Alex to move into the big time. The West face of Huayna Potosi is a truly big undertaking--the second highest face in Bolivia, with 4000 ft of steep snow and ice topping out a few feet shy of 20,000.
Over the course of 30 hours or so, we hiked in and bivuacked beneath the mountain. We woke up at the now-standard midnight, started up the face at 1AM, and topped out 10.5 hours later. We simul-climbed the whole face with few breaks. I consumed an energy gel and less than a liter of water. After a quick descent down the normal route, we were back in La Paz for dinner. The capstone climb of the trip starts tomorrow!
Huayna Potosi. The most popular mountain in Bolivia. Our objective was its challenging and seldom-climbed west face, the top half of which can be seen on the left.
There was a cemetery near the base from a labor protest massacre.
Views towards Condoriri and Pequeno Alpamayo
Alex and I ready to set off
We followed a convenient water pipe almost the whole way to the base
The West face of Huayna Potosi. Our route followed the snow and ice from left to right to the summit
In the middle of the face. Photo: Alex von Ungern
Alex leading as we approach the exit
Following through the variable mixed sections. Photo: Alex von Ungern
Above the clouds
Photo: Alex von Ungern
The cornice proved to be a little tricky
Me negotiating the loose cornice (as seen by Alex on the summit). Photo: Alex von Ungern
