Bugaboos Part 3: Big Day on Bugaboo Spire

SAM_2392We saved the best for last…after a few marginal weather days, we finally had a perfect window on our last day.Bugaboo Spire wakes up. We traversed the entire peak from right to left.Climbing the Northeast Ridge of Bugaboo Spire is really only the start of this adventurous day.Snowpatch Spire in the early morningApproaching the Northeast Ridge of Bugaboo SpireSpectacular climbing characterizes the Northeast Ridge Most of the route was icy, making the moderate climbing quite a bit spicier than normal.IMG_0654IMG_0693After twelve or so pitches, one reaches the north summit, but the traverse to the south is wildly exposed and a bit complicated…requiring a cheval technique—scooting along the ridge as if you were on horseback.Natalie scoots along the knife edgeThen comes the descent of the Kain Route, a long and complicated traverse of the entire mountain before returning down the Bugaboo Snowpatch Col.Cobalt LakeLeading the traverseNatalie follows the traverse between Bugaboo Spire's two summitsNatalie and I had no issues, but it certainly took a full day to figure out the little tricks of the route.Natalie atop Bugaboo SpireIMG_0668After returning to the Kain Hut, we gathered our things and hiked out by headlamp. Thanks Bugaboos--you're the stuff dreams are made of!I scout our line on a rappel to get to the Kain Route.IMG_0704

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Bugaboos Part 2: Warming Up