This section puts my climbing history into a rough timeline showing when I gained important skills and took trips critical to my development.
1996-1998: Summer camping trips with my family in Rocky Mountain National Park, the Tetons and Yellowstone. My first experiences with class 3 terrain (scrambling) on Longs Peak in 1996 and 1998. I also did several cross-country hikes (i.e. Hallett Peak).
2000: Guided 3 day course with the Colorado Mountain School. Several toproped climbs to 5.9, I followed my first multi-pitch trad route, and rigged overhanging rappels on my own. Climbed the North Face of Longs Peak (3 pitches, 5.4), and soloed Mount Meeker (class 3), Mount Lady Washington and Storm Peak (both class 2).
2003: First trip to Yosemite. Went fast alone on many of the famous trails from Yosemite Valley (Camp 4 to Yosemite Falls to El Capitan 4 hrs round trip), Half Dome and Clouds Rest plus a detour (27 miles, ~9000 ft of elevation gain in 9 hours round trip) and the Four Mile Trail (~90 minutes).
2004: First climb in the Sierra. Led a few teammates up Mount Morrison (class 3) (~6-7 miles, 5000 ft of gain in 4 hours RT). Spent Thanksgiving rock climbing in Joshua Tree.
2005: Started the summer by setting speed records on the Yosemite Falls Trail (43:04 for about 3 miles and over 3000 vertical feet of gain) and Half Dome (broken in 2008, 2:38:21 round trip for 17 miles, 5100 vertical feet). Climbed Mount Morrison via a different route (class 3).
2006: A big year for me in the Sierra. I learned snow skills, and did several routes (North Couloir on North Peak class 4-5, soloed the Southeast Glacier of Mount Ritter, Mount Aggasiz both class 3). Climbed the East Arete of Mount Winchell (a truly long route, class 3). In late November, attempted the Mountaineers Route on Mount Whitney, reaching ~14,200 ft before turning back due to icy conditions.
2007: Climbed Mount Lyell (4th class rock, moderate snow, ~35 miles) in 12 hours. Linked the East Ridge of Mount Russell, the Mountaineers Route of Mount Whitney, Keeler Needle and Mount Muir (all over 14,000 ft) in a day. Linked a climb of Humphreys Peak (the highest in Arizona) with a rim hike in the Grand Canyon, and a run from the top to the bottom and back out of the Grand Canyon in a day. My first canyoneering scramble was a challenging experience in Zion National Park.
2008: More climbs in Yosemite, and soloed the N Couloir of Mt. Sill in the Eastern Sierra in spring.
2009: A monster year for me. Soloed the Mountaineer’s Route of Mt. Whitney in a day in winter, attempted Mt. Shasta but turned back due to high winds and cold feet, climbed Lone Pine Peak in spring, did quite a few climbs in Rocky Mountain National Park, a route in the San Juan Mountains, and spent a few weeks in the Alps, climbing classic alpine and multipitch traditional rock climbs. Soloed the SW chute of Middle Teton in 5.5 hours round trip. In the fall, I learned to lead trad over several weekends climbing moderate classics in Yosemite Valley and Tuolumne. Over Thanksvigiving, I climbed Mt. Langley and did sport climbs in Owens Valley.
2010: Lots more rock climbing in Yosemite and Tuolumne, attempted Tyndall and Williamson in a solo 23-hour continuous push, many more ascents in Rocky Mountain National Park, including Blitzen Ridge on Mt. Ypsilon, and fast ascents of Chief’s Head, McHenry’s, Meeker, and Longs Peak. Also in Colorado: Golden Horn in the San Juans, Maroon Peak (of postcard fame), Mt. Evans and Bierstadt via the Sawtooth Ridge traverse. Set fastest known times on Middle Palisade and White Mountain Peak (both 14ers in CA). Went on my first expedition to Thorung Peak (20,157 ft), Annapurna Region, Himalaya.
2011: Soloed the Casaval Ridge of Mt. Shasta in 11 hours in January! First attempt on Split Mountain, summited solo via St. Jean Couloir on 2nd trip. Mt Lamarck and several rock climbs in the Sierra. Climbed Khan Tengri (23,000 ft) in the Tien Shan, Kazakhstan/Kyrgyzstan. Completed the Palisade Traverse in an epic 26 hour continuous push. Climbed the Owen-Spalding on Grand Teton in 13 hours car-to-car. Climbed the spectacular North Ridge of Mt. Conness in the Sierra.
2012: Mount Tyndall in a day in the heart of winter. Pamir expedition in happening in the summer. Much more to come…I’m always scheming.