Bugaboos Part 3: Big Day on Bugaboo Spire

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I scout on the Kain Route descent

We saved the best for last…after a few marginal weather days, we finally had a perfect window on our last day.

Bugaboo Spire wakes up. We traversed the entire peak from right to left.

Bugaboo Spire wakes up. We traversed the entire peak from right to left.

Climbing the Northeast Ridge of Bugaboo Spire is really only the start of this adventurous day.

Snowpatch Spire in the early morning

Snowpatch Spire in the early morning

Approaching the Northeast Ridge of Bugaboo Spire

Approaching the Northeast Ridge of Bugaboo Spire

Spectacular climbing characterizes the Northeast Ridge

Spectacular climbing characterizes the Northeast Ridge

 

Most of the route was icy, making the moderate climbing quite a bit spicier than normal.

Most of the route was icy, making the moderate climbing quite a bit spicier than normal.

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After twelve or so pitches, one reaches the north summit, but the traverse to the south is wildly exposed and a bit complicated…requiring a cheval technique—scooting along the ridge as if you were on horseback.

Natalie scoots along the knife edge

Natalie scoots along the knife edge

Then comes the descent of the Kain Route, a long and complicated traverse of the entire mountain before returning down the Bugaboo Snowpatch Col.

Cobalt Lake

Cobalt Lake

Leading the traverse

Leading the traverse

Natalie follows the traverse between Bugaboo Spire's two summits

Natalie follows the traverse between Bugaboo Spire’s two summits

Natalie and I had no issues, but it certainly took a full day to figure out the little tricks of the route.

Natalie atop Bugaboo Spire

Natalie atop Bugaboo Spire

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After returning to the Kain Hut, we gathered our things and hiked out by headlamp. Thanks Bugaboos–you’re the stuff dreams are made of!

I scout our line on a rappel to get to the Kain Route.

I scout our line on a rappel to get to the Kain Route.

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