Moskvin Glacier and Acclimatization

Hey everyone,

We actually get some shaky internet and occasional Russian coverage of the Olympics here in base camp. It’s a funny mixture of luxury and chaos. Most of the camp has had a pretty nasty stomach illness go around from bad food at base camp. Hopefully my bout a few days ago will be the last.

A few days back, I went up Korzhenevskaya to scout the lower part of the route and acclimatize. On the first day, I climbed to about 16,800 over awful loose rock, moraine and glacier to camp one. The next day, went up rotten ice and deep, wet snow to a camp at around 19,000 ft. Yesterday, I climbed to the corner at the base of the summit ridge at 20,200 ft and descended to base camp, caching some gear along the way. I’m pleased that after my time on Lenin, things here appear to be going more smoothly with regards to the altitude, and I should be ready to go higher after resting a bit.

Take care,

Starting a three-day acclimatization climb with an amazing backdrop

Korzhenevskaya. The route ascends the left side of the glacier, then traverses at the base of the rock wall ~19,000 ft to the corner on the right, 20,200 ft, then follows the ridge to the summit.

Climbing to the 19,000 ft camp on Korzhenevskaya

Peak Communism and its lenticular cloud from 19,000 ft on Korzhenevskaya

Two climbers from Kamchatka beginning the summit ridge. Heavy snow has buried all of the fixed ropes.

The traverse from the 19,000 ft camp to the corner crosses steep, sun-altered snow at the base of the rock wall to the corner.