I was stranded in Jergatol for a few extra days due to Tajik dysfunctionality, but today I caught a lift on Tajikistans only chopper to base camp. This is the icy heart of the Pamir, surrounded by giants. The great Fedchenko Glacier, the longest outside the polar regions, lies just over the ridge. Peak Communism towers above. I’ll have to go slowly again as I spent too long down low.